Nagoya Meshi Duo: Three-Way Charcoal Grilled Hitsumabushi Eel & Crispy Tebasaki Wings

The cosmopolitan metropolis of Nagoya boasts one of Japan’s most bold, fiercely original regional culinary identities, proudly branded nationwide as *Nagoya Meshi*. The crown jewel of this culinary heritage is *Hitsumabushi*, a celebrated freshwater eel (*Unagi*) delicacy conceived in the late 19th-century Meiji era by historic restaurant Atsuta Horaiken beside Atsuta Shrine. Unlike Tokyo’s style of steaming the eel before grilling, Nagoya chefs grill live-harvested eels directly over searing Kishu Binchotan charcoal while repeatedly glazing them in century-old sweet tamari soy tare. This achieves an exquisite textural contrast: intensely crackling crisp exterior skin enclosing succulently tender, fat-rendered meat, finely sliced and layered over steamed rice inside a traditional round wooden tub (*Ohitsu*). The global charm of Hitsumabushi lies in its revered three-step epicurean ritual, where diners divide the wooden tub into four equal portions using a wooden paddle. The first quadrant is enjoyed as-is to savor the pure, unadulterated charcoal-crisp unagi and savory rice. The second portion is garnished with aromatic condiments (*Yakumi*)—finely minced scallions, pungent freshly grated wasabi, and slivered nori. The third portion is elevated by pouring a pot of steaming hot, dashi-infused green tea broth over the bowl, transforming it into a soothing, deeply umami *Dashi-chazuke* soup. The final fourth quadrant is reserved for the diner’s favorite style among the three. Balancing the refinement of unagi is Nagoya’s addictive drinking companion: *Tebasaki* (peppery twice-fried chicken wings). Perfected by iconic izakaya pioneers Furaibou and Sekai no Yamachan since the 1960s, these tender mid-joint wings are fried twice without batter until blistering crisp, brushed with a garlic-infused tamari glaze, and smothered in aromatic white pepper and toasted sesame seeds. Pair with a frosty mug of local draft beer for the definitive Nagoya night out.